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SARMIZEGETUSA

 
 
 
SARMIZEGETUSA , 15km southwest of Hateg, is the site of one of the key Roman settlements. Having forced the Iron Gate, Trajan's legions marched northeast to subdue the Dacian citadels in the Orastie mountains. Within a few years they had founded towns, most notably Colonia Ulpia Traiana, to which the name of the old Dacian capital, Sarmizegetusa, was later appended. Today, the town's fame still derives from the Roman ruins east of the centre, whose excavated portions are only part of the original town, which centred on a citadel measuring some 700m long by 500m wide. You can see the remains of the forum, the palace of the Augustales where priests were trained, and the elliptical brick and stone amphitheatre where gladiatorial combats and theatrical spectacles were staged. Start by visiting the museum (Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm) across the road from the ruins, which exhibits stonework and other artefacts, and avoids mentioning the likelihood that most of the glorified "Roman" colonists believed to have interbred with the Dacians to create the ancestors of today's Romanians were actually of Greek or Semitic origin.

There's one bus a day, at 11am, from Hateg, returning at 12.30pm, which gives just an hour to see Sarmizegetusa. Alternatively, you could choose to stay overnight: the town has a recently refurbished motel (tel 054/777 360; $6-10), and there are three cabins (under $6) at the bar by the entrance to the ruins.

It's only about 6km from Sarmizegetusa to Zeicani village (connected by daily bus) at the entrance to the Iron Gate of Transylvania ( Poarta de Fier a Transilvanei ), a narrow pass 700m above sea level. A monumental mace erected near Zeicani commemorates the defeat of 80,000 Turks by 15,000 Transylvanians under the command of Hunyadi in 1442. Further up the pass, in 106 AD, the Dacians had their fateful clash with the Romans; as recorded by Roman scribes, this battle was a disaster for the Dacians - their forces were crushed, and their ruler Decebal committed suicide rather than be ignominiously paraded through the streets of Rome. The pass itself is 10km long, and accessible by road (DN68); minimal rail services resume at the mining village of Boutari on the far side.
 
 
 
 

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