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CLEJANI |
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Some 40km southwest of Bucharest is the small village of CLEJANI ,
renowned throughout the region as a centre for Gypsy music ; the world-famous
band Taraf de Haidouks live here when they're not touring, as well as a
number of other tremendously talented musicians. If you're a fan of such
music, or if you're just interested in experiencing Gypsy culture close
up, then take half a day to visit the village - and if you're lucky you
may get to hear some of the spellbinding music first-hand.
The village itself is unremarkable, whilst the Gypsy settlement - little
more than a dusty, mud-dried street lined with crumbling one-roomed
homes - is easily found; upon arriving at the village from Vadu Lat,
take the first left, continue walking for 400m and you'll find the Gypsy
settlement on your right. Strangers are few and far between here and you
may initially feel a little intimidated, but for every pair of eyes
fixed on you, there will be a bare-footed, grinning child tagging along,
eager to have their photo taken. Whilst its doubtful that you'll even
find the Taraf de Haidouks (likely to be away touring), let alone afford
to pay for them, you may well find another group who will be more than
happy to put on an impromptu performance for you; ask around for Sandin
Marin, also known as Zis Tagoia, who should be able to gather together
the Taraf de Plugari band. It's expected that you'll offer some money in
return for the band's efforts - around $10-15 would be appropriate - and
a few bottles of beer also wouldn't go amiss. Whilst at the settlement,
take the opportunity to wander around; you'll probably be invited into
someone's house, which will give you the opportunity to witness first-hand
the paucity of Gypsy life.
To get to Clejani from Bucharest, take a train from the Gara Basarab to
Vadu Lat; five trains a day make this 45-minute journey (the last train
back to Bucharest is at 10pm). From the station it's a 3km walk: turn
right and continue along the tracks for 100m until you come to some
steps set into an embankment; from here walk along the path across the
field until you come to the main road, then turn left and carry on
walking for 2km - there's a good chance you'll be able to hitch a ride.
For more information about visiting the village, the Villa Helga youth
hostel in Bucharest may be able to help.
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